Thursday, July 16, 2009

Leaving Buenos Aires

About a week ago I returned from several weeks of traveling, and as being on the road and out and about exploring new cities has not exactly facilitated blog writing and so I've gotten quite a bit behind in what I'd have wanted to share about my journeying. In the end, my travels included a trip to Puerto Iguazu to see the famous Iguazu waterfalls and to Posadas, capital of the province of Misiones of which Puerto Iguazu is part. There I obtained a visa and crossed the border to Paraguay to visit the capital of Asuncion, where Emily Grannis, a friend of mine from high school, was busy finishing up her month spent studying the Paraguayan press. From there I went back to Buenos Aires to play tourist with Emily over her three-day layover before she returned to Ohio. On the second leg of my journey I visited Cordoba in the sierras, and then Salta in the far north and finally returned to Rosario a couple hundred kilometers away from Buenos Aires.

Rather than try to detail this all in one massive entry I've decided to break it up into "episodes" of a sort. This first one, describes my initial exit from Buenos Aires and the events that led up to my arrival in Posadas.

After finals were over I knew that I needed to get out of Buenos Aires, but I had no idea where I was going to go. Finally my escape from the influenza-crazed city and the threat of long boredom in the period in between semesters was facilitated by my friend Lina selling me her ticket to Puerto Iguazu, a port city a few kilometers away from some of the biggest waterfalls in the world. I went with her to the terminal to buy the tickets and when they gave me the option to leave the time for my departure open, I initially accepted...but then I thought about my tendency for "paralysis by analysis"--putting off indefinitely making a decision, based on the idea that with more information I could make a better one--and decided I would just buy it for the following Tuesday afternoon just a day after I turned in my last final exam. I had no idea where I would stay or where I would go from there. Nonetheless, on Tuesday I hopped on a 20+ hour bus-ride to the northeasternmost reaches of Argentina, armed just with my ticket and a vague idea that I wanted to travel more if possible, hopefully to Paraguay.

Although the sheer act of will (and a kind of pragmatic self-knowledge) that motivated my decision to leave were perhaps uncharacteristic for me, one aspect of my journey will probably not surprise anyone that knows me. I have no pictures of Iguazu because I hadn't bothered to get a converter for my camera before I left Buenos Aires (I told myself it was because I was too busy with finals stuff, but it would have taken like ten minutes). I wrote about my reactions to it in a pocket notebook where I've been taking all sorts of notes for poetry that I'd like to write in the future. This too I have since lost. Typical.

My friend Lina wrote post about the falls and took some great pictures so this may give you some kind of idea about what they looked like. For my part, I didn't have the chance to see the "devil's throat" she refers to as I spent most of the day seeing the smaller waterfalls (of which there were many!) and so by the time I was ready to take the train north to see the really big one
(I'd seen glimpses already, but I'd wanted to save the biggest one for last) the train had already stopped running so I had to head back to the hostel.

In addition to seeing waterfalls my time in Puerto Iguazu was spent taking long looks across the river at Paraguay and trying to figure out how to get there. I went to internet cafes to communicate with Emily and get her contact information, which it ocurred to me I both didn't have and might need, and talked to folks at the hostel about immigration rules over endless cups of mate (the communally consumed bitter tea-like beverage typical to Argentina). It was there I decided I'd have better chances (and possibly a more interesting stay than the small port town) in the capital of Posadas. In addition, nearby Posadas are about a dozen ruins of Jesuit missions that were built there several hundred years ago. Being both from Cleveland, itself a kind of industrial ruin, and roots in Guatemala, a country with some of the most gorgeous ruins in the world, these hold a special interest for me.

Traveling brings a lot of unexpected experiences with it. One such experience happened for me in the hostel where I was staying in Puerto Iguazu, where I met a fellow traveler, a Peruvian girl maybe a few years older than me, who's been traveling all around South America selling hand-made jewelry, mostly to tourists. In this way she has managed to support herself sufficiently to keep traveling and, along with a group of friends has funded her journeying throughout Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina. As I left she was on her way to Brazil, having recently gained a portuguese-speaking companion. It was this encounter that gave me the idea of not only of trying to travel while selling wares of some kind to support the travel, but more importantly about how much there is to see and places to go within my own country--just as the Peruvian artisan traveled South America.

Going to Posadas from Puerto Iguazu, with the idea of eventually making it to Paraguay, introduced me to something new--the idea of traveling in a linear fashion, getting to a destination by moving from one place to another and spending various days en route. Almost my travels in the past--camping in Colorado, visiting family in Guatemala, visiting a friend in San Francisco--have been one-shot journeys to a specific place; I go, I stay, I come back. This is the first time where I've traveled by myself and gone somewhere, in order to get somewhere else. It's a fabulous way to travel--you get to see places that are more off the beaten track (hardly anyone goes to Posadas just to see Posadas) and it gives you great satisfaction in having finally gotten someplace when your final destination is reached.

These novelties were (are) exciting. I started to think about the possibility of doing a roadtrip of the United States with my brother, traveling and selling art (my brother is an aspiring artist). In the meantime I still had more traveling to be done.

Next time, the trials of getting a visa in Posadas and finally crossing that river.

Thursday, July 2, 2009

Madness in the Southern Hemisphere

Argentine President Christina Fernandez de Kirchner with barbijo (facemask)

Buenos Aires, my home away from home for these past few months has descended into all kinds of craziness in the past few days. A couple days ago they declared a state of emergency in the face of Gripe A the new name for our old friend the swine flu.

I know many of you are probably wondering what I'm talking about. Swine flu? Weren't we all done with that several months ago? Haven't we moved on to more important things like the death of Michael Jackson or Iranian elections or the military coup in Honduras?

But things are different here in the bottom of the world mostly, I suspect, due to one important fact: the southern hemisphere. Buenos Aires has all the right ingredients to keep the swine flu going. First of all for my friends and family in Cleveland, Ohio, it may be hard to remember while you're on the beach and chilling in air conditioned houses, that while flu season is long gone for the north, down here it is the dead of winter (which is actually pretty pathetic by Cleveland standards). So flu season is in full peak. On top of that, Buenos Aires is one of the biggest cities in the world and is, I think, the second in the Southern Hemisphere. I think Rio beats BA but they don't have much to worry about when it comes to cold, they're probably still lying on the beach as we speak (as usual). Being a big city full of international visitors means that it's more likely to have folks from nasty flu infested places come for a visit and bring gifts.

Most of the rest of the other Southern Hemisphere countries are either not that cold, or not that popular. Somehow Buenos Aires is both.

This is a very unhappy fact and while it would be annoying enough if I were living on my own, living with a pair of seventy year-olds. The couple that I live with, particularly Irma, the wife, are very concerned about the flu. This is, I suppose, with good reason as it has the potential to be more dangerous to them than it would be to me.

Still it does seem to be bordering on insanity at times. But it's not just them. The other night the whole family (myself, Irma and her husband Roberto and two of their adult children Hernan and Milagros) were seated around the television listening to the public health people talk about "the situation" while every five minutes Irma gets a call one of her daughters telling her that the government is lying and hiding cases and telling her how bad the situation really is (she works in a hospital, but then again that makes the information biased--hospitals are full of sick people).

So when I went to the doctor yesterday complaining of sneezing, a cough and a sore throat, the guy got about three phone calls just in the twenty minutes that I was there and complained of how much people were overreacting. I showed up with a face mask mostly because my host family asked me too and was amused to find that he wasn't wearing one and asked me to take it off so that he could check my throat, breathing etc. You would think that if doctors aren't even using them they couldn't be good for much.

But it's a crazy world out there. When you don't have too many facts and you don't really trust the people who are giving you advice (the government) it's easy to get a little paranoid.

My solution: I'm getting out of this town till things settle down. Details to follow.